How to use a ratchet strap

A ratchet strap only holds a load properly if it's threaded, tensioned and locked the right way. Here's how to do it, start to finish, plus how to release one that's under tension.

The parts of a ratchet strap

A standard two-part ratchet strap has:

• The fixed end: a short length of webbing sewn to the ratchet, with a hook on the end.
• The long end: the loose webbing with a hook at the other end. This is the part you thread.
• The ratchet: the buckle with the handle. Inside it is a slotted spindle that the webbing winds onto.
• The release catch: the spring-loaded tab on the handle that lets you open the ratchet.

Before you start

Check the strap before every use. Don't use it if:

• The webbing is cut, frayed, burnt or has chemical damage.
• The ratchet or hooks are cracked, bent or stretched open.
• The label is missing or you can't read it. Under EN 12195-2 the label shows the strap's lashing capacity (LC), so without it you don't know what the strap is rated for.

How to use a ratchet strap, step by step

1. Attach the hooks

Hook the fixed end and the long end to lashing points on the vehicle or trailer. Seat each hook fully in the lashing point, not on its tip. Keep the webbing flat and untwisted across the load.

2. Open the ratchet

Pull the release catch and open the handle until the ratchet sits flat and fully open. You'll see the slot in the spindle.

3. Thread the webbing

Feed the free end of the long webbing up through the slot from underneath. Pull it through by hand until the strap is snug against the load and most of the slack has gone. Leave enough webbing to wind on, but not so much that it bunches up.

4. Tighten it

Close the ratchet and pump the handle up and down. Each stroke winds webbing onto the spindle and adds tension. Aim for at least one and a half turns of webbing on the spindle so it grips. Stop before the webbing builds up so much that the handle won't close.

Tighten until the load is secure. You don't need to crank it as hard as you can. Overtightening can crush boxes and soft loads and doesn't make the load any safer.

5. Lock it

Push the handle fully closed until it sits flat and the catch locks. A ratchet left half-open can work loose.

Tidy the loose tail of webbing so it can't flap or catch, either by tying it off or tucking it away.

How to release a ratchet strap

1. Pull and hold the release catch.
2. Open the handle all the way back, past upright, until it lies flat the other side. The spindle unlocks and the tension drops.
3. Pull the long end out of the slot.

If a strap is stuck under heavy tension, keep your fingers clear of the handle when it opens. It can snap back.

How to thread a ratchet strap that's come out

If the long end has come out of the ratchet, open the ratchet fully, then feed the webbing up through the slot in the spindle from the underside. Pull through enough to take up the slack and tighten as above.

Tips that keep the load secure

• Protect sharp edges. A strap running over a sharp edge can be cut under tension. Use edge protectors wherever the webbing crosses a corner.
• Check the straps on the way. Loads settle, so check tension after the first few miles and at each stop.
• Never lift with a ratchet strap. Ratchet straps are made for lashing, not lifting. For crane or overhead lifting use a rated lifting sling.
• Store them dry and coiled. Keep straps out of the sun and away from chemicals when they're not in use.

Straps that hold their tension

Loads settle on the move, and a standard strap can lose tension as they do. That's why you check straps on the way. The BOA Strap is built for this: heavy-duty tension springs keep it tight if the load shifts or settles in transit, and it has an ergonomic handle.

If you tension a lot of straps a day, our ergonomic 50mm straps use a reverse-action pull-down handle, so you pull down to tighten instead of pushing up.

Browse our ratchet straps, all made to EN 12195-2, or contact us if you're not sure which strap suits your load.